Winter Z project

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Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:37 pm

So...I had a lot to do this winter and I haven't completed a single thing, though I've started on everything, lol.

*Calipers and brackets need repainting because 1)red doesn't match my color scheme and 2) the paint on there is fading.
*Swap stock plenums back on so I'm not bumped into SM and so I can fit my stock strut tower brace back on.
*Wider tires/rims cuz 225/245 just isn't enough.
*Fix my AFR gauge cuz the face is slowly rotating and driving me up a wall.
*Remove lambo doors cuz they're irritating me as well
*Swap open diff and gears for LSD and new gears for drifting
*Remove the 5 layers of Dynamat from my trunk area cuz the audio is in the CRV
*Have fenders repainted for the 4th time cuz Falls Auto Body hates me.

Pictures to come.

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  JConner03 on Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:45 pm

what color is ur z?

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:49 pm

Yes, that is painter's tape holding my door on as I swap the hinges




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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:51 pm

^^Think it would be considered Silver with blue stripes atm. Very Happy

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  JConner03 on Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:54 pm

u have any after market parts ud like to get cash for i have a buddy i work with that has a z and is looking to mod it

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:32 pm

Actually yea...getting rid of my Kinetix and MREV2 upper and lower plenum. And the lambo doors Very Happy

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:00 pm

Calipers with 1 coat, being finished tomorrow:


What you see when you remove both plenums:


You see all that black plastic on the engine? Yea...that's all for the battery:


Happy new Yellow Top :

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  sportcompacted1 on Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:21 pm

looking good. let me know when you are ready for clutch petal cut and welded. ill do it so you juz cuz.
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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:07 pm

Thanks Smile I have to wait til the brakes are on and the car is moved against the wall so I can open the driver's door all the way.

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  IBRKL8 on Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:43 pm

Thank god you got rid of the lambo doors! looking good Ben!

I will post my own build thread AFTER the BMW is done! (I like posting start to finish all at once)
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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Thu Jan 20, 2011 10:37 pm

It's not so much that I didn't like the look. They just got irritating to deal with overall and I think they cost me a bit of structural rigidity that I could use in Autox.

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  TwistdidVr6 on Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:47 pm

Lol cant believe the painters tape worked.

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Fri Jan 21, 2011 12:02 am

Well I forgot to take a picture while all of the tape was still on after the hinges were on. Obviously I wasn't going to trust the tape to hold it longer than absolutely necessary, so I kinda rushed through that. I had about 5 more pieces of tape than pictured. I will take a picture of the wall tomorrow where I stuck it all after I pulled it off the car.

Also the tape didn't completely work. The door shifted forward a little so I get to figure out how to fix that when my friend stops by tomorrow.

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Sat Jan 22, 2011 12:07 pm

Ok, after waiting a week for my pressure bleeding system, I tried to hook it up and it didn't work. So the project has been put on hold for another week.

So I went to order and only saw "universal" or "Miata" under the Japanese tab and wrongfully assumed that the $60 universal Japanese adapter would fit my Japanese vehicle. I assumed since it was so expensive that it would come with several different adapters to fit those vehicles. No. it came with a conical-shaped rubber gasket, a plastic piece to place on top of it, and two hooks and a chain to hold the entire assembly to the reservoir.

Apparently I was supposed to search the applications guide on Motive's website (I was unaware there was one; the description "fits Japanese and American vehicles with a round hole" seemed fairly self-explanatory) and figure out that 1107 which was specified for Ford vehicles was also to be used on my Nissan.

/rant

Edit: So after all of this frustration I took a glance at Summit's website and I bet no one can guess where I'm going this weekend...

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  TwistdidVr6 on Sat Jan 22, 2011 1:15 pm


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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:40 pm

Speaking of fail...
*got the brakes fluid in
*got rims on
*dropped it
*took pictures
*phone deleted pictures

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  TwistdidVr6 on Sun Jan 23, 2011 2:53 am

HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Mon Jan 24, 2011 6:03 pm

Ok, so even more fail. I got the brakes on and the rims on. Dropped it down and went to move it over and the pedal went to the floor. The rear calipers were on the wrong sides >.< I also have no good shots of the rims because the side with the front fender on is against the wall as you can see.






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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Mon Jan 24, 2011 6:34 pm

So cliff notes:
*plenums are swapped
*new battery
*calipers and brackets are painted
*brake fluid is now blue
*rims/tires are on
*driver's side door is done (except maybe a little alignment fixing)

to do:
*clutch pedal
*clutch fluid
*clutch line
*differential/gears
*passenger side door and fender
*AFR gauge
*remove sound deadening
*rearrange N2O bottle(s)

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  JConner03 on Mon Jan 24, 2011 6:54 pm

cant wait to see it

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owning a z also

Post  anthonycaporaletti44 on Mon Jan 24, 2011 7:21 pm

im conner friend . i ave a 03 350 z that black on black with nitrous .. you said you wanted to sell the lambo doors? how much and are the hydrolics or just regular? and do you have anything after market. If so let me kno.. interested inwhat youve done.. Im looking at twn turboing mine this next winter.. Also thats unny that you say Falls Auto Body would hate you ... I date the Owners Oldest daughter.. He is always talking about this silver 350z there doing work on... If you need anything done like that let me know i can get the hook up since i get the hook up specially on paint or aftermarket....


I GET SHIT CHEAP!

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Mon Jan 24, 2011 9:43 pm

The only parts I'm selling other than OEM stuff are my doors and upper and lower plenums. I'm not sure what you mean by hydraulic or regular lambo doors. This kit has shocks if that's what you mean. I'm in the process of pulling the parts off, so you get first dibs cuz I haven't gotten around to listing them anywhere yet.

This is a VDI kit. It sells for $1300 new, I was looking to get $600 out of em.
VDI Lambo Doors

The lower plenum is an Mrev2. New it's $440, so I was thinking $250 for that.
MREV2

The upper plenum is a Kinetix V+. New it's $250, so I was thinking $125. Since it's been shaved in areas to clear my hood.
Kinetix Lower Plenum

If you want help installing the plenums I'd do it for free; they're really easy. The doors are a bit more complicated; painter's tape and cardboard are your best friends though. I'm pretty sure FAB could modify your fenders to fit the hinges, so it may be easier for you.

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Aftermarket parts

Post  anthonycaporaletti44 on Tue Jan 25, 2011 8:26 am

ok ill take a look at what youve told me and the pricing. What other Aftermarket parts or things have you done to your Z?

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Tue Jan 25, 2011 5:10 pm

I dunno if you did, but if you click on the names below where I typed the prices they link to ebay auctions.

All of the mods that will be done to the Z as of Spring are listed in my sig.

By the way...I need help removing my aftermarket sound deadening. I will provide beverages of choice should anyone choose to assist me Very Happy

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Re: Winter Z project

Post  Drivessidewayz on Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:14 pm

I haven't forgotten about this...just been too busy/tired to take pictures. So here's how to remove the differential from a 350z:

*jack up right front. stick short jackstand under there
*jack up left front. stick short jackstand under there
*jack up rear. stick taller jackstands under both sides
*continue this pattern until for the next 20 minutes until the car is high enough to wiggle under
*attempt to undo driveshaft bolts. realize car is in neutral without ebrake and wiggle out from under it in order to remedy one of the two.

*wiggle back under the car and break one bolt loose. realizing that the drivetrain needs to be moved in order to access the other three, release a cry of anguish and repeat these last two steps 3 more times.
*slide driveshaft out
*attempt to remove the rear axle bolts. realizing that whether the vehicle is in gear or not no longer matters, you wiggle out from under the car to pull the ebrake.
*break 3 bolts loose on each axle and then wiggle back out and release the ebrake and turn the tires
*break the remaining 3 bolts loose on passenger's side and 2 on driver's side because against all odds the driver's side tire turned instead of the input shaft when you spun the passenger side tire.

*wiggle back out from under the car and adjust the ebrake and tire accordingly.
*break loose remaining bolt.
*remove all bolts you can access.
*realizing that you no cannot rotate the axles and no longer need the ebrake, you heave a sigh and wiggle out to release the ebrake.
*after removing all the bolts, grab the biggest, heaviest hammer (or other blunt object) you can find and break the driver's side axle loose on the second swing.

*hit the passenger side axle 10 times in increasingly harder swings, slowly rotating as you do.
*take a screwdriver and attempt to hammer it into the non-existent crack between the stub axle and axle shaft.
*do this for 30 minutes until just as you're about to give up, you notice the crack is widening.
*wedge ratchet under the axle so it doesn't give you a free nose job
*shit yourself when axle breaks loose and is stopped inches from your face by aforementioned ratchet

*change pants
*break the rear diff and front driver's side bolts loose
*realize you need a shorter 17 than the deep socket you have and drive 20 minutes round-trip to nearest Advance and buy one.
*stick it up there and attach 6" extension because that's the only thing that will clear the sway bar and exhaust
*realize that while the ratchet is moving, the bolt is not and go drive 20 minutes round-trip to buy a replacement for the nameless extension that just bent

*return to break the last bolt loose by bracing yourself between a combination of the wall and the underside of the vehicle
*support diff with jack and remove all bolts
*realize the rear bolt is actually a nut and pitch a fit because there is not 3 inches of clearance in front of the diff to remove it
*attempt to remove diff anyway
*after giving up on removing the diff, pull the sway bar off.

*attempt to remove end links without allowing the sway bar to hit your face.
*notice that it would be a lot safer to do it from the outside and set ebrake to remove wheels
*remove both wheels and remember that the sway bars are supported by more than just end links.
*remove plastic pieces covering sway bar brackets
*remove sway bar brackets

*allow sway bar/exhaust to continue supporting the differential
*notice that the differential still refuses to drop
*grab the nearest 3 foot pry bar and start prying at the diff while hoping it doesn't roll down the jack and onto your face
*realize that there are two wheel sensors and a breather tube attached to diff
*feel stupid and hope you didn't break the sensors

*find an angle to break the two 10mm bolts torqued to 200ft-lbs with red loctite
*remove sensors
*arrange hand and face in a very sensitive manner relative to the differential's mood
*remove breather tube and slowly drop diff
*catch it as it attempts to roll off jack onto waiting face
*lower jack and pull it out from under the vehicle

Two days and 10 hours later, the differential is out Smile

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2006 350z
*Nismo CAI*~*Tien S-tech lowering springs*~*Custom Exhaust*~*TurboXS Utec*~*drilled/slotted rotors*~*Hawk HPS pads*~*Carbonetic Carbon 2 way LSD*~*4.08 Final Drive*~*Enkei NT03 18x9.5f 18x10.5r*~*Nitto INVO 275/35/18f 295/35/18r*~*100 shot nitrous oxide* 425lbs/ft 357hp
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